Understanding Skin Care Ingredients

Skin Care Ingredient Essentials
There are many skin care ingredients in our products that help to protect the skin against the signs of ageing with most falling under the below categories: For more details on the type of skin treatments offered at Skinclub, visit Skin clinic melbourne.


Sunscreens
Skin loses about 1% of its collagen and elastic tissue after age 25,. Ultraviolet light from the sun that causes visible effects of “ageing” skin. Regular use of a sunscreen is essential to slow the ageing process and maintain healthy skin

skin begins to lose collagen and elastin after the age of 25 with UV light from the sun causing the visible signs of ageing. Regular and committed use of a sunscreen containing a zin or titanium dioxide will help to keep skin looking youthful.
UV rays can be divided into 3 separate categories:

UVC which luckily is blocked by the ozone layer
UVB which increases in summer and on sunny days. UVB can be partly blocked by clouds and in winter and is the primary cause of skin cancer
UVA which is long wave ultra violet rays which penetrate into skin, destroying collagen and increasing the ageing process. UVA can penetrate clouds and even window glass.This is the primary cause of photo ageing

The zinc oxide and titanium dioxide in products physically block the sun and protect the collagen in skin. without these chronic sun damage can occur. Though darker skinned individuals enjoy a benefit of a build in sun screen to a degree they will still age and have sun damage without protection. The UV rays which damage the skin are cumulative and over time can cause more and more damage to unprotected skin.

Early years sun protection helps to reduce the risk of skin cancer and premature ageing of the skin. This should be adopted in early childhood and young adulthood particularly in warmer countries such as Australia.
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Although it’s almost impossible to eliminate exposure to damaging sun rays entirely, it can be minimised by protective clothing and proper use of an effective sunscreen. Most over the counter sunscreen preparations are effective UVB blockers, but allow most of the more penetrating UVA energy to pass through and age the skin.

There are two types of sunscreens: chemical and physical blockers

Traditional chemical sunscreens bind to skin protein and absorbing UVB light, and are based on para-aminbenzoic acid and cinnamates. Commercial preparations contain weaker UVB/UVA absorbers which have a limited UVA absorption. Octocrylene is a weak but stable UVB absorber Avobenzone is a benzophenone with UVA protection, but tends to be irritating. All can cause allergic or irritant contact dermatitis.

Sunblocks act as physical barriers which reflect or scatter radiation. Direct physical blockers include metal containing compounds such as iron, zinc, titanium and bismuth. These are highly reflective white powders but their main problem is they are often thick and uncomfortable. Traditional ZnO sunblocks are opaque white, but when the particle size of the zinc oxide or titanium is decreased transmit visible light and retain their UV blocking properties.


When choosing a sunscreen preparation it is important to make sure it covers both UVA and UVB light.



Moisturisers

Hydration and humidity are an essential part of skin care. Enough water intake and humidification indoors will assist with dry, itching and flaking skin.

Moisturisers assist with relieving dry skin.. A thicker moisturiser may be suitable for dry, chapped hands, but would clog pores on the face. Facial moisturizers should be water binding to increase hydration in the face. Moisturisers incorporate emollients which smooth the surface of the non-living outer layers of the skin and lubricates.  Humectants assist skin cells to absorb and retain moisture in these upper ayers.

Commonly emollients in moisturisers  include mineral oil, shea butter and cocoa butter. Some also contain animal oils such as squalane and lanolin.

Humectants used include glycerin and glycol derivatives, such as propylene or polyethylene glycol and hyaluronic acid. They also include mono- and polysaccharides such as fructose, sorbitol, cellulose, and hyaluronates. Phospholipids also exist including ceramides and sphingolipids and silicones such as dimethicone.

Moisturisers are often unnecessary especially those with oily or very sensitive skin. All have the potential to clog pores and cause irritation, and should only be used when the skin is truly dry. Moisturisers do not stop ageing.


Alpha Hydroxy Acids

Also known as Fruit acids, AHA’s are mild acids present in foods. The most commonly used is Glycolic Acid which is derived from sugar cane. Other AHAs used include Lactic Acid (milk), Citric Acid (oranges, grapefruits, lemons), Tartaric Acid (grapes), Pyruvic Acid (bananas and other fruits), and Malic Acid (apples). They are  used in low concentrations in cleansers, moisturizers, and toners, and in higher concentrations as peels.

Their main job is to loosen dead skin cells in the epidermis and increase cell turnover. This assists in refining the texture and appearance of the skin  and weakens the epidermal barrier to allow effective penetration of further products such as moisturizers, retinoids and antioxidants..

AHA’s are water binding, and tare excellent hydrating agents. They effectively hydrate the skin to looking smoother and healthier.

A typical AHA regimen would include at minimum of two weeks of daily use of a home care product followed by a series of professional treatments. Other topical agents including retinols can be introduced gradually after the first treatment. Some stinging or redness is expected at first, but will improve as the skin adapts to the AHA. A milder AHA can be used, or the frequency decreased

AHAs effectiveness is related to the amount of free acid in the product. A lower pH means more free acid, and greater penetration into the dermis, but with a greater potential for adverse reactions. AHA products with a pH higher that 4 are ineffective and anything less than 3 only by a prescribed source. Many products are “buffered” with an alkaline solution to decrease the acidity and irritation likelihood of the product.


Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)

There is only one clinically important BHA which is Salicylic Acid. It is a close relative of the common aspirin and is repelled by water and highly soluble in fats and oils. It is mainly used to open comedones and allow penetration of less fat soluble AHAs into skin. It can be used with AHAs in light peeling solutions for a congested skin.


Retinoids

There are a number of widely available Retinoids including prescription only topical medication such as Retin-A, Stieva A and Retrieve. There are also over the counter products including Retinaldehyde, Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate.
The purpose of a retinoids is to act on the DNA of skin to reverse the signs and symptoms of skin ageing and sun damage. They also aid with the following:

increased cell turnover
reduction in brown spots and pigmentation
improved skin texture and complexion
increased plumping of the skin
Overall improvement in the condition of the skin


Tretinoin (trans-retinoic acid) is the active ingredient in products includingRetin A and Retrieve and has proven rejuvenation effects. It can only be obtained with a prescription. They are typically applied at night.

Over the counter agents such as retinol (vitamin A) and retinyl palmitate are less irritating but also less effective. A prescription user of retinoid may find that skin irritation, redness and flaking can occur. In this case it may be best to reduce the concentration of the product.


Retinoids are broken down by bright light and should only be applied at night time. They also make the skin sun-sensitive so a sunscreen with zinc oxide should be used every day. The full beneficial effects of retinoid treatment generally take about 6 to 12 months to be apparent and are the single most effective class of topical agent for reversing the signs of ageing and sun damaged skin.




Bleaching Agents

Hydroquinone is the most commonly used agent in a bleaching product. It can effectively be used for brown marks and melasma.. It acts to block the formation of the melanin pigment. The bleaching activity is reversible when the product use is discontinued. Kojic acid which is extracted from mushrooms is slightly less. As with any bleaching agent, aggressive exfoliation and sun protection are essential. They may produce redness and irritation, especially with prolonged use.


Antioxidants

The ability of the body to turn nutrients into energy involves Oxidation. Nutrients are “burned” in a to provide energy for growth and repair. A result of this process is the production of free radicals.

The most significant free radicals in biological systems are those involving oxygen, such as the superoxide (HO2) and hydroxyl (OH) radicals, produced during normal cellular respiration.
Free radicals play an indispensable role in normal biological processes, but these molecules can cause damage to normal cellular processes and structure. They are a key contributor to the ageing process.

Biologic antioxidant systems include:

Antioxidant enzymes such as superoxide dismutase, peroxidase
Dietary antioxidants such as the tocopherois, carotenes, ascorbic acid, alpha-lipoic acid, glutathione, resveratrol, polydatin, ect.
DNA repair systems

Antioxidants are often in skin care products to protect the skin from free radical damage produced by normal aging, pollution, and UV radiation from sun exposure. Many of these antioxidants are also in dietary supplements.


Vitamin C: The most used topical antioxidant is Vitamin C. This is essential for collagen syntheses and UV protection .Vitamin C stimulates collagen production. The photo protective effects of L-ascorbic acid are well established but it readily degrades in the presence of sunlight. and does not penetrate the skin well.

Vitamin E: The active form of Vitamin E  has been shown to inhibit enzymes which promote breakdown of collagen and to protect cell membranes from oxidation.

Coenzyme Q10: Coenzyme Q10 is a component of cell membranes. It acts to shuttle electrons in normal metabolism, trap free radicals, and help regenerate other antioxidants present in the cell.

Spin Traps: Spin traps are molecules that can trap and detoxify damaging free radicals which age the skin.

Idebenone: Similar to Coenzyme Q10, it is a more efficient free radical scavenger, and functions incidentally as an electron carrier.
Alpha-lipoic acid is a potent antioxidant normally found inside cells, acting to protect delicate cellular membranes from free radical damage’

Resveratrol and Polydatins are glucopyranosides found in many fruits and vegetables, the highest concentrations being found in grape skins.

Boldine occurs abundantly on the leaves and bark of boldo a native tree in Chile.

Glutathione – is found in almost all living cells in our body and strengthens the immune system.

Beta-Carotene occurs in many vegetables notably carrots and tomatoes,. It helps to minimize lipid peroxidation of cell membranes.,


Green Tea extract contains antioxidant poyphenols which protect against redness and swelling

Ginko Biloba: The  leaves contain as assortment of polyphenols and bioflavonoid increases collagen production in cultured fibroblasts.


Human growth factors

Various human growth factors have been incorporated into topical preparations. They are essential for wound healing and recovery and can reduce the number and depth of wrinkles and fine lines.

Some of the growth factors found in tissue culture media include transforming growth factor beta vascular endothelial growth factor and keratinocyte growth factor.Other substances found culture include matrix proteins, procollagens, interleukins and cytokines.


Botanical Agents

Herbal and Botanical ingredients have been used to improve the appearance of skin since time began. They are mostly used in natural skin care preparations for their scent and feel.In most cases there’s little scientific basis for their efficacy.

Many of these may be toxic or cause sensitivity.  A lack of standardisation complicates any assessment of their efficacy.

Witch Hazel
Chamomile
Calendula
Bromelain (pineapple)
Arnica Montana (arnica)
Aloe Vera
Purple Coneflower
Comfrey
Peppermint Oil
Tea Tree Oil
Bittersweet


Copper

Copper acts as a cofactor in collagen and elastin production and assists with the production of new blood vessels. Copper atoms are stabilised with peptide complexes to assist delivery into the skin. Copper peptide complexes used topically increase procollagen formation and may help lessen  skin ageing.

Exfoliation with Microdermabrasion and Peels

The epidermis constantly produces new cells which are gradually shed at the skins outer surface. This stratum corneum is the skins first line of defence and thickens with age, disease and exposure to sunlight. This gives the skin a dull, thickened appearance. Exfoliation lets the natural beauty of the skin show through, unblocks pores, and reduces the barrier function of the skin. Exfoliation can be chemical, mechanical, or a combination of both.


Chemical exfoliation

This is generally performed with an AHA derived from sugar cane, milk or fruit. AHA’s also assist the layers of the skin to thicken and retain water and plumps the skin and decreasing fine lines.

Low concentrations of AHA’s are available in a variety of skin care products. Products with a higher concentration that are more effective and only available by practitioners.

High concentrations of AHA are great when used for mild peeling and are often combined with herbal or fruit extracts. As the concentration of AHA increases, so does the incidence of side effects such as blistering and peeling and redness. They can increase the likelihood of sun damage and discoloration if not used with a sunscreen.

For more details on the type of skin treatments offered at Skinclub, visit Skin dermatologist melbourne.

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Website: http://www.skinclubaustralia.com.au
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